Frequently Asked Questions at TNT Property Maintenance in Kitchener

Why should you choose interlocking paving stone over concrete or asphalt?

 

It depends on your expectations of costs vs long-term durability.

 

When considering a new or expanded driveway, the honest answer is that asphalt is the cheapest on paper. It will not be as thick as interlock paving or consistent (it will not be the 2 inches you think you are getting due to compaction; it might average about 1 to 1½ inches).

 

Interlock pavers are consistent in thickness due to the manufacturing process (2-3 inches depending on stone selection).

 

Asphalt has the shortest life cycle of paving materials at between 10 and 15 yrs. Asphalt needs to be maintained over its life cycle due to cracking.

 

Interlock paving has a life cycle of 50-plus years and retains its value. When installed correctly, interlock paving is basically maintenance free over its life cycle.

 

Concrete does not flex with our freeze-thaw cycles and therefore will crack. If the stones in the mix are dirty, the concrete will spald (peel off the top layer). If the concrete is stamped there must be a coating applied to keep the surface intact. This sealer tends to be very slippery when wet or covered in snow etc.

 

A Few Basics about All Driveways

Base material should be a minimum of 12 inches of compacted A-Gravel; the thickness of material should be consistent throughout driveway area. Special requirements need to be met for areas that have clay underneath.

 

For more information, visit the Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute®. They have many studies comparing the different materials and cost analyses.

 

Is there an alternative to standard concrete steps?

There are precast steps that are available in a variety of colours or natural stone steps.

 

5 Essentials for Creating a Butterfly Garden

In order to support a butterfly from egg to adult, your garden must include the appropriate plants as well as provide a suitable habitat. With a little knowledge, time, and patience, you can easily create an ideal butterfly habitat in your own garden!

 

1. Grow native plants because butterflies rely heavily on native plants in order to survive. Not only do they visit flowers of these plants for nectar, female butterflies look for specific host plants on which to lay their eggs.

 

2. Reduce pesticide use because pesticides will kill butterflies.

 

3. Choose a sunny location. The sun is essential in a butterfly’s activities. Butterflies can fly only after raising their body temperatures above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

4. Provide shelter design in your garden to include features that provide protection from cold and windy weather. A brick wall, the side of your home, or a row of trees serves as an adequate windbreak on blustery days.

 

5. Create a water source because butterflies need water and minerals in their diet. Instead of slurping water they siphon it, along with nutrients, and salts, through their straw-like mouths. Incorporate a water feature in your garden, or adapt an existing feature to keep a small section of the ground moist.

 

Minimize the Risk of West Nile

Your chance of being bitten by a mosquito capable of spreading West Nile virus is small. However, if there are reports of infected mosquitoes, infected horses or dead birds in your area, you should take immediate action to minimize your risk of mosquito bites.

 

These tips can help:

• Limit the time you spend outdoors at dawn and dusk, when mosquitoes are most active.
• Wear light-colored long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and a hat when outdoors.
• Use insect repellents. Read and follow the manufacturers’ directions for safe use.
• Make sure that door and window screens fit tightly and have no holes.

You can also take steps to reduce mosquito populations around your home and property. Mosquitoes need standing pools of water to breed, so remove standing water from such items as pool covers, saucers under flower pots, pet bowls, and wading pools. Empty and clean bird baths twice a week. Also, clean eavestroughs regularly to prevent clogs that can trap water.

 

Report Dead Birds

To help monitor the spread of West Nile virus, report dead birds to Region of Waterloo Public Health at 519-883-2086.

 

Grubs: Life Cycle & Control

Grubs feed on grass roots causing your lawn to die. The key symptom of grub invasion is irregular dead patches which will lift up easily if tugged on. These patches have had the roots severed and there is nothing to anchor the sod in place. The highest concentration of grubs will be found in dead turf bordering green areas. The grub is C-shaped with a brown head, white body and six legs on its upper half.

 

The grub’s life cycle is very simple. The grub feeds on grassroots from mid March to mid May, and then develops into its pupil form. The adult beetle then emerges in mid June, mates over a two week span and retreats back into soil to lay its eggs. The grubs hatch and begin to feed in late July to August. The grubs will burrow below that frost line in the fall and stop feeding but if there is a thaw, they will resume feeding at anytime, even during the winter. The grubs will continue to feed in the spring, constantly growing larger.

 

The fall (mid August to September) is actually the best time to apply chemical control as the larvae have just hatched and can be killed quickly due to their small size. A certain percentage of chemical must be ingested in relation to body mass, therefore, the smaller the grub, the less the amount needed to kill it. They will not die with the first taste. It can take up to two or three weeks. If you don’t notice the problem in the fall then you must recognize the problem and apply in the spring. If you’re going to apply in the spring, do so around mid March to mid April as larvae are feeding ravenously.

 

When a lawn is well maintained, well watered and well fertilized, there may be grub problems but because the lawn is so vigorous, it will grow more roots as they are destroyed. You may not even detect a problem and if you do, the damage will not be as severe.

 

Water Damage Prevention: Insurance Article

If you have ever been unfortunate enough to have experienced a flooded basement, you know the damage can be extensive, expensive and the inconvenience, unforgettable.

 

A flood can be caused by spring run-off, melting snow, an over flowing river, lake or stream, or even a swimming pool.

 

Excessive groundwater build-up that enters your home via leaks or seepage is also considered flooding. Whether aided by wind or an act of God, damage to your home caused by a flood is not covered.

 

Most comprehensive homeowner policies will cover other types of water damage provided the cause is “sudden and accidental” and is not caused by freezing. This could include the sudden failure of a heating or air conditioning system, an overflowing washing machine, a blocked toilet, accidental sprinkler going off or a burst water pipe.

 

The key words here would be ‘sudden’ and ‘accidental’.

 

Water entering the home through leaks, cracks and seepage is considered to be the responsibility of the owner and should be prevented through routine home maintenance.

 

Sewer back-ups occur when massive volumes of water overload a drainage system. Once the wastewater rises above your basement drains, a back-flow into your home results. Sewer back-ups can introduce black mould, harmful bacteria and sewage waste into your home, creating health risks and extensive damage. Depending on where your home is located, sewer back-up insurance can usually be added into your policy to help cover losses or damage caused by water that has accidentally escaped from a sewer, drain, storm drain, sump pump, septic tank, eavestrough or downspout. To be on the safe side, you’ll want to get in touch with your insurance broker to find out what your coverages include. While we cannot control sewer back-ups or sump pumps, proper sewer design and maintenance can help prevent these losses.

 

In the meantime, here are some tips on how can you prevent or limit water damage to your home:

• If the area you live in is susceptible to sewer back-up, make sure your home has a back-flow valve and plugs for drains, toilets and other sewer connectors installed.
• If you don’t have a sump pump, install one. If you do have a sump pump, test it to make sure it is working because severe weather often causes a hydro interruption, it makes good sense to install a battery back-up device for the sump pump or keep a small gas generator to power critical electrical circuits. Both of these devices are available at a reasonable cost from any building supply or hardware store.
• If you have an unfinished basement, we suggest you store items in plastic containers or on shelving at least 12" off the floor.
• Ensure your window wells are clear of leaves and debris and by periodically checking your foundation for signs of wear, tear and cracks. Keep eaves and downspouts clear of debris and make sure water flow is directed away from the foundation. If your building code in your area permits it, have the downspouts connected directly to your weeping tiles or sewer drain.
• In winter, keep snow away from the foundation to reduce surface water during sudden spring thaws and winter rains. Areas around ground level windows and window wells should be cleared regularly.
• The condition of your foundation is a housekeeping or maintenance issue, not an insurance issue. If the land around your house slopes in towards your foundation, instead of running away from the home, the chance of ground water building up is greater. If you’re concerned about sewer back-up, check with a plumbing expert in your area to see what can be done to reduce or eliminate the possibility of this type of loss.
• And you’ll want to check with your insurance broker to confirm what your homeowner policy covers.